The Short Version: My traditional bowhunting arrow setup uses a roughly 34-inch, 695-grain arrow shot from a 43-pound recurve. It travels about 145 feet per second and gives me a 25-yard point-on distance. At my usual whitetail ranges of 15 to 20 yards, that shorter point-on creates a small, repeatable gap and lets me focus on executing the shot.
For the past four years, I’ve hunted with essentially the same arrow setup. It’s a long, heavy and admittedly ridiculous-looking arrow: about 34 inches from nock to point and 695 grains finished. Out of my 43-pound recurve, it averages about 145 feet per second.
It also works exceptionally well for the hunting I do.
Most of my whitetail shots in the Eastern U.S. are inside 20 yards, and many fall between 15 and 20 yards. Instead of building an arrow around speed, maximum range or someone else’s idea of perfect arrow weight, I designed mine around those actual shot distances.
The result is a 25-yard point-on distance and an aiming system that remains simple when a deer is standing in front of me.
My Heavy Recurve Arrow Setup at a Glance
| Component | My setup |
|---|---|
| Bow | 43-pound recurve |
| Finished arrow length | Approximately 34 inches from nock to back of point |
| Finished arrow weight | 695 grains |
| Arrow shaft | Gold Tip Traditional Classic XT, 340 spine |
| Shaft GPI | 12 grains per inch |
| Insert/outsert | 55-grain Easton half-out |
| Point or broadhead weight | 200 grains |
| Fletching | Usually 4-inch parabolic feathers; 3, 5-inch feathers also work |
| Measured speed | Approximately 145-146 feet per second |
| Point-on distance | Approximately 25 yards |
| Intended hunting range | 20 yards and closer |
This exact build tunes well from my bow, at my draw length and with my shooting style. It is not a universal recipe. Arrow spine and component selection must be tuned to the individual archer and bow.
Why I Built My Arrow Around Close-Range Shots
A more conventional traditional bowhunting arrow might weigh 450 to 550 grains. From the 40- to 45-pound recurves I commonly shoot, arrows in that range can travel about 170 to 185 feet per second and produce a point-on distance near 40 yards.
That sounds useful until I consider where I actually hunt.
With a 40-yard point-on, the tip of my arrow might is near a deer’s feet on a 20-yard shot. That creates a visual gap of roughly 3 feet. So instead of trying to gap shoot, I would shoot instinctively at close distances. The problem is that I can make instinctive shooting work well in the backyard or while relaxing with friends at the range, but it hasn’t been as reliable for me under pressure.
Competing in barebow archery taught me something important: When the arrow tip is on or close to the spot I want to hit, I can shoot extremely well. I wanted to bring that repeatable aiming reference into the woods.
A 25-yard point-on does that. At 20 yards and closer, I can place the arrow tip around the bottom of a whitetail’s chest and put most of my attention on shot execution.
That is the point of this entire setup. It isn’t about using the heaviest arrow possible. It is about simplifying my aim at the distances I commonly shoot deer.
What Is Point-On Distance in Traditional Archery?
Point-on distance is where you put your arrow on a spot and your arrows will group in that exact location. Basically making the point of your arrow a single pin sight.
At distances shorter than point-on, you'll need to aim lower. At distances farther than your point on, you'll aim higher.
Point-on distance isn’t determined by arrow weight alone. It changes with:
-
Arrow length
-
Anchor-point height
-
Where you hold the string — crawl, split finger vs three under
- Nocking point height
My goal was to manipulate the variables I could without compromising the shooting form or my bow's tune.
How I Shortened My Point-On Distance
There are several ways to bring a traditional bow’s point-on distance closer. I worked through them in an order that protected my shot process.
Raise the nocking point
Raising the nocking point can shorten point-on distance, but only within reason. Move it too far and arrow flight or tune can deteriorate. Any nocking-point change should be tested through the bow-tuning process rather than made solely to alter the sight picture.
Crawl down the string
Moving the string hand below the nock—often called string walking or using a fixed crawl—can also reduce point-on distance. But traditional bows, especially those without adjustable tiller, have a practical limit. Crawl too far and the bow can become noisy or difficult to tune.
Use a higher anchor
A higher anchor places the arrow closer to the eye and generally shortens point-on distance. My anchor is the middle finger at the corner of my mouth. That is about as high as I can go while keeping the back tension and alignment I need.
Maintaining that connection is more important to my accuracy than forcing a particular point-on distance. I wasn’t willing to compromise the foundation of the shot to improve the aim.
Shoot a longer arrow
A longer arrow moves the point closer to the target in your sight picture and can shorten point-on distance. My draw length is approximately 30 to 30.5 inches, depending on the bow. Many shafts don’t give me enough additional length to make a major difference, so my finished setup measures about 34 inches from nock to point.
The extra length helped, but it didn’t get me all the way to 25 yards.
Increase total arrow weight
The final step was adding mass. A heavier arrow leaves the bow more slowly and follows a more pronounced arc, moving the point-on distance closer.
I started with a heavy shaft and added substantial weight up front. That combination brought my total arrow weight to 695 grains and my point-on distance to about 25 yards.
The Components in My 695-Grain Hunting Arrow
The foundation is a Gold Tip Traditional Classic XT in 340 spine. The 340 shaft weighs 12 grains per inch, so it provides plenty of mass before I add the components.
I use a 55-grain Easton half-out instead of the standard Gold Tip components. Easton publishes an arrow component guide and shaft-selection resources, but matching components by diameter is only the start. Confirm fit, spine and tune before hunting.
The point end of the arrow carries 255 grains total:
-
55-grain half-out
-
200-grain field point or broadhead
Fletching is less critical to the aiming concept. Four-inch parabolic feathers have been my default for years because they stabilize my broadheads quickly and don’t require me to find an index feather while nocking. Three- and 5-inch feathers have also worked well. At ranges inside 25 yards, I mainly want enough steering to stabilize the arrow and broadhead rapidly.
The finished result is 695 grains—close enough that I generally call it a 700-grain arrow.
How Fast Is a 700-Grain Arrow From a 43-Pound Recurve?
I shot this setup through a Garmin Xero C1 Pro chronograph.
My four recorded arrows traveled:
-
145 feet per second
-
147 feet per second
-
144 feet per second
-
146 feet per second
That places the practical average at about 145 to 146 feet per second. It is slow by modern compound-bow standards and even slow for many recurves.
At 20 yards and closer, this arrow gives me the sight picture and repeatability I want.
Does a Slow, Heavy Arrow Penetrate Well?
In my experience on whitetails, yes—provided I put a very sharp broadhead behind the shoulder.
I normally hunt with 40- to 45-pound recurves, and I’ve had pass-throughs on nearly every whitetail I’ve hit cleanly behind the shoulder. I use sharp two-blade or four-blade broadheads and have had success with models ranging from Magnus Stingers and Black Hornets to Iron Will broadheads.
No arrow build removes the need to tune carefully, practice consistently and wait for an ethical shot angle.
The Trade-Off: This Is a Short-Range Arrow Setup
The benefit of a 25-yard point-on is also the setup’s central limitation.
Beyond 25 yards, this arrow loses velocity quickly and the trajectory becomes increasingly unforgiving. I wouldn’t shoot at an animal beyond that distance with this setup. Even target shooting becomes difficult as range increases.
That limitation doesn’t bother me. My objective is to hit whitetails consistently at 20 yards and closer, not make long shots with a traditional bow.
If you need to shoot 30 to 40 yards, this probably isn’t the right arrow setup. A somewhat lighter, faster arrow could give you a more useful trajectory and longer point-on distance. Equipment should fit the hunting environment, not force the hunter to accept an unsuitable limitation.
Should You Copy This Traditional Bowhunting Arrow Setup?
No—not component for component.
Archery is individual. Your draw length, draw weight, release, bow design, string material, center shot and intended range all affect the arrow that will tune and aim best for you.
Start with the shots you actually take. Then work backward:
-
Determine your maximum ethical hunting range.
-
Establish a repeatable shot process.
-
Measure your current point-on distance and hunting-range gaps.
-
Decide whether those gaps are easy to reproduce under pressure.
-
Change one variable at a time.
-
Tune every new arrow configuration before installing broadheads.
The Easton arrow selector is a useful starting point for spine selection, but charts cannot account for every traditional archer’s release and bow. Bareshaft, paper or other appropriate tuning methods should confirm the final build.
My broader equipment philosophy is to optimize for the task I encounter most often. It’s why I prefer compact, purpose-built hunting knives, and it’s why I shoot an unusually long, heavy arrow. You can read more about my bowhunting, competitive archery and product-testing background on the Woodsman Knives About page.
Final Thoughts
My 695-grain arrow isn’t fast, flat or designed for every kind of traditional bowhunting. It is designed to give me a 25-yard point-on and a small, repeatable gap on the 15- to 20-yard whitetail shots I encounter most.
That simpler sight picture has allowed me to bring the accuracy I developed in barebow competition into the woods. Instead of estimating a 3-foot gap or trusting an instinctive picture that can change under pressure, I have an obvious reference and more mental space for shot execution.
That is what makes this arrow work for me. I built it around my bow, my form, my quarry and my realistic shooting distance. I don’t plan to change it until I find something that works better.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a good arrow weight for a recurve bow?
There is no universal ideal weight. Arrow spine, total mass and components must match the bow, draw length, release and intended use. Many traditional hunting arrows are substantially lighter than my 695-grain setup. Tune your arrow rather than choosing weight alone.
What does point-on mean in traditional archery?
Point-on is the distance where the arrow tip appears directly on the desired impact point at full draw. At shorter distances, the archer typically holds the point below the target to account for the gap.
Does a heavier arrow shorten point-on distance?
Generally, yes. Added arrow mass usually reduces velocity and creates a more arched trajectory, which can bring point-on distance closer. Anchor height, arrow length, string position and bow performance also affect point-on.
Is a 700-grain arrow too heavy for a 43-pound recurve?
Not necessarily. My 695-grain arrow tunes well and has performed effectively on whitetails from my 43-pound recurve. But its low speed and steep trajectory make it a specialized, short-range setup. Each archer must confirm tune, accuracy and suitability for the game hunted.
How fast does this 695-grain arrow shoot?
It averaged approximately 145 to 146 feet per second in a four-shot chronograph string from my 43-pound recurve.
What is the best broadhead for a heavy recurve arrow?
I prefer extremely sharp two-blade or four-blade broadheads that fly well from the tuned bow. Broadhead sharpness, structural integrity, arrow flight and shot placement matter more to me than choosing one specific brand.